I just found this in the throttle I believe these are the pieces that need to be 1/8" apart.

 

I put them back together and now the engine only runs with the choke open. it will just die even if i try to use the throttle.

 

THROTTLE CABLE / ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL (ETC SWITCH) ADJUSTMENT 1. Slide the boots off inline cable adjuster sleeve. Loosen adjuster locknut. 2. With handlebars centered and wheels pointing forward, turn adjuster sleeve until 1/16 - 1/8 freeplay is achieved at the thumb lever. Aftermaking any adjustment, “flip” the lever slightly to confirm adjustment. 3. Tighten locknut and slide boots over cable adjuster until they touch at the middle point of the adjuster. NOTE: Whenever throttle cable adjustments are made, always check oil pump adjustment and re-adjust if necessary. 4. Turn the handlebars from full left to full right with transmission in neutral. Engine RPM should not change and the engine should not die. If either of these occur, return to the first step.

 

 

If they touch it won’t start at all if they don’t touch it will start with the choke and the choke only. I can give it gas with the choke open and it runs fine.

 

This is a late model throttle but should get you to eliminate this issue

 

They don’t touch no matter how far I loosen the throttle cable adjustment

 

This is the adjuster

 

Also if the switch is closed it doesn’t start

 

The contacts are meant to touch when you have the throttle at idle and the lever moves the small distance. The carby settings are not right. Check the throttle slide & idle screw is just allowing the slide to open a little & the needle is set in the middle to start with. Top groove on needle is lean & the bottom one is rich

 

Here is the manual

 

loos like they need to be open

 

Is my idle screw missing ?

 

Yes on the older units they are open and when the cable sticks it cuts the motor. on the new ones the same but at idle the ECU sees that okay but if cable stuck & revving and they close the cut engine to stop runaway

 

The photo shows the fuel bowl & drain screw. the idle screw is elsewhere

 

Should be near the side plate but maybe has fallen out. You might have to take carby off and go through it as per the manual

 

Have a look at ETC operation test on page 10.45, you may have a short in the wiring

 

took carby off will need to get carb cleaner. do i need to buy a kit to rebuild or can i just clean.
and where tf can i find an idle screw

 

If the screw is missing you will need to get the following from Polaris or from the Mikuni Carby agent
Polaris part Numbers
1 X 3130546 SCREW
1 X 3130545 Ring
1 X 3130544 spring.
Do you have the other Mixture screw??

 

yes i have the other screw

 

Home time so knock off talk to you later

 

ATV ran fine from 1/4 throttle and above just would not idle before messing with it. Before tear down it would only start with choke and stay running with throttle. Then it would only run with choke. Found the idle screw to be missing. I think this is why the guy had the throttle cable ziptied to the handle bars to pull the cable. This in turn triggered the ETC by putting slack in the cable and the guy had to disable it by removing the contact and thats why I found it missing. The ETC has been set up correctly with 1/8" gap normally open. Becasue it ran fine before I will be just cleaning the entire carb and jets. This thing hasnt been riden in years so i think a good cleaning will be fine with original jetting. I will be replaing the idle screw so I should be able to acheive a good idle and remove this tom foolery. I will ultrasonic clean my carb, re-assemble and report back. @lateburd @leanardo2211 anything specific i should look out for when cleaning this carb or using it with my ultrasonic cleaner. TIA

 

31 is the idle screw - I have them laying all over the shop both new and used - you pay the postage and I'll send one to you complete with spring and washer.

 

I belive I have a replacement but I will take you up if it doesnt work.

 

Machine idled for its first time in its life. It kind blubbered and died with light throttle but screamed at 1/2- full throttle. idled a lil rough. could onlt get it to act normal if it was warmer. tried messing with the fuel screw but couldnt get it right. eventully it wouldnt start wiht my good settings. How do i go about adjusting this properly. I dont think i need to adjust the needle. are you turning the fuel screw a full turn at a time? also if its dying is that to much fuel or to less of fuel. Is clockwise or counterclockwise more or less fuel. My Bowl seal is shot so i took out the Mikuni and put in a chinese carb just cause i had one. Battery died trying to start it so gonna try and start with the chinese carb again today. should i be priming these carbs.

 

Remove anti-tamper plug and connect an accurate tachometer such as the PET 2100DX (P/N 8712100DX) or the PET 2500 (P/N 8712500). 2. Adjust idle speed using the idle speed screw to about 1600 RPM. 3. Turn the pilot screw (mixture screw) in or out slowly using the pilot screw wrench to obtain the highest idle RPM. 4. Re-adjust idle speed to specified RPM (1300 +100). 5. Again turn the pilot screw in or out slowly to obtain the highest idle RPM. 6. Turn the pilot screw out (counterclockwise) 1/8 to 1/4 turn. 7. Re-adjust idle speed to specified RPM (1300 +100).


How in the hell do you turn the screw while the engine is on I have to take the carb off everytime?!

 

@lateburd you got a bowl seal too? lol

 

ordered carb rebuild kit and a carb adjustment tool. Getting new fuel line also cause its all rotted. Also got a new fuel filter cause its all ancient

 

You know........ sometimes I have to check myself to avoid confusion and based on the age of your machine the idle setting is not what I described.

For your model, you set the fuel screw at about 2 turns out from lightly seated and run the engine for about 15 minutes (not idling - ride it) then set a window fan in front of the ATV to move air across the engine simulating riding it - set the idle speed at the rpm you prefer and turn the fuel screw in until the rpm start to fall - from this point turn the fuel screw out and count the turns to the point the rpm starts to fall - now set the fuel screw half way between the two points that the rpm fell.