I would next check starter to see of you’ve got voltage there......2 suspects= starter and ignition switch
Thanks, I'll check those in the am.I would next check starter to see of you’ve got voltage there......2 suspects= starter and ignition switch
How can I check the starter other than at the starter, is there another point I can use the multimeter on?. The HL's have all the snorkeling blocking access,I would next check starter to see of you’ve got voltage there......2 suspects= starter and ignition switch
So it raining like mad and I between I've tried a few things. I'm not tearing all the snorkeling apart in the rain. But I put some wd40 on the only wire I can reach of the starter. Wiped it up. No corrosion. I turned the key and got a single click. Did that a few times and then nothing. Then it started a single click again a couple times. Now nothing again.The 4 pin switch is simplistic - when in the on position, red/blk connects to red/wht - when turned to the statrrt position 12v is supplied to the blue wire - the blu wire goes to the start relay in the fuse box connected to pin 42 - pin 46 is a brn/wht wire - brn/wht is ground when the brake is applied and the start relay closes sending 12 v to the starter solenoid via wht/red wire.
You should check the key switch first, the start relay second and the start diode third.
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Pretty sure it's the starter/solenoid. Turn the key and with the fuse box open, the relay clicks. But nothing happens at the solenoid/starter.The solenoid is part of the starter motor - when you turn the key, the relay in the fuse box should click and then the solenoid should close and the starter motor spin. If you turn the key on, set the brake so the brake light is on and jump pin 42 to 45 in the fuse box and the starter motor spins, then the starter and solenoid are good and the start relay is the probable culprit, but it could be something to do with the CPU also.
If the relay clicks it's working though, right? Since all the relays are the same in the fuse box, I even swapped them around with no change in anything.Be sure to test the relay - they typically fail before the starter motor, but to get warranty on the starter motor, you will either have to take the quad to the dealer and have the work done or (if the dealer is amicable) you take the starter to them and they will test it before warranting it - it will really suck if you remove the starter and then find out there is nothing wrong with it, but those Chinese starters are renown for short life. BTW - the starter motor is the same for the older 850's and can be gotten for about $250 from Rick's or FirePower
Got it, thanksLook closely at the pic in post 126 - when looking at the back side row 1 is at the bottom and row 4 is at the top - the pic of the location of the relays and fuses are from the top side - the pins are numbered from top to bottom - 41 is coil high or 12v in (hot when the key is turned to the start position) and 42 is 12v relay in (hot when the red/blk wire is connected to the red/wht wire by the handlebar switch) - 45 is 12v relay out to the starter solenoid and 46 is coil low or ground
Your warranty is only as good as your dealer - be thankful you have a good dealer.Spoke to the dealer, Polaris will replace it for free. Being an HL the warranty is only 6 months and it's been 8. So awesome that Polaris has stepped up.
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Did you ever figure out the issue? My 2010 sportsman 550 is having the same issue and I have replaces key switch, and solenoid, but still wont crank with key, jumping the starter works fine..2010 Sportsman 850
New starter, new battery, all grounds and connections cleaned and tight. Have 12 volts at starter power lug and 12 volts at the solenoid lug. Still won't start. When I jump the starter power lug to the solenoid lug the starter engages. Any thoughts?