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Discussion Starter #1
Okay bought this 07 sportsman 500 efi a week ago have had to do alot of repairs to it. I have a electrical problem was getting no power to the atv and found out I had a bad ground connection. Now it wont turn over in park or neutral only in
reverse/ drive/ or low. But I also have a batt light coming on when I start it and sometimes it runs great then others battery light will come on and the charging system acts crazy. Could I have a bad ecm? I know the voltage regulator is built in then will the starting issue I'm having now just all seems like it be leaning towards a bad ECM
 

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Does the display the gears properly? If yes, it more or less eliminates the gear selector switch and display as the potential problem and the ECU is not involved, the SSCB (or ECM) would be the culprit - part number 4011517

If you study the screen shot below you can see the transmission input (J1-C) signals both the FWBD and Starter Interlock solid state relays - without having 'hands on' to be able to test, best guess is either the starter interlock is confused, but if the display does indicate correctly, then the transmission switch may be defective or it might be any of the connections between the components.
140123
 

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Yes its showing park and all gears when I move the selector. If I unplug the switch it goes out so like you said you think it's the ecm? I'm thinking that might be the culprit for battery light staying on as the voltage regulator is built in it. Also I can get it to start in reverse gear it turn stops turns stops then finally runs but if I take my negative post off battery it immediately dies
 

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What the hell possessed you to remove the neg terminal with the engine running?

If you disconnect the battery with the engine running, it can fry the EFI module, ECM (SSCB) and if the rpm is high enough the lights too. The EFI and ignition require battery voltage to operate. Remove the battery and it will not start regardless of how you get the crankshaft to turn.

Of course you should check the stator - it's SOP for charging system problems and a charging system failure can damage the battery, ignition and other DC operated devices.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was thinking like a car you can pull the negative off a battery to see if the alternator is putting out when you dont have a actual tester. I see now these are alot different
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well with it running I have 11.6 volts at battery cut my headlights on battery light flashes has 11.4. Also my mph gauge needle jumps up and down a little
 

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It appears the charging system is not working, but it could just be a low or bad battery. The charging system operates off battery voltage until the engine speed is increased to about 2500 to 3000 RPM. First put the battery on a 1.25 amp maximum output automatic battery charger until fully charged - let stand about 4 hours and then check the battery voltage before using - should not drop below about 12.8v - then, with the lights off, start the engine and rev to about 3000 rpm, the battery voltage should rise, but not above 14.8v - if that happens, then the charging system is at least doing something - if the battery voltage drops slowly, the charging system has failed and needs to be repaired.

BTW - removing a battery cable on a car battery while the engine is running is a good way to damage the electronics on it too. Back in the days of DC generators, that method was a simple test. ATV's with magneto ignitions can have the battery cable removed while running and it will have no effect to the engine's ability to run, but without the battery connected, it can and will still cause the lights to fail because the voltage regulator will not function properly if not connected to a battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay thanks that battery is a brand new one I had put it in a few days ago when everything first happened. I will put it on a slow charge tonight then recheck it. Thanks for the help with this it seems like I might have two issues going on with it the charging and starting problem when in park and neutral which from what you said before could be the sscb. Like I said the trans shows the gear selector correctly on the screen when moved to each position
 

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Many electrical problems occur in multiples - a battery can cause a rec/reg to fail - a rec/reg can cause a stator to fail - a poor ground can cause them to all fail seeming at the same time, but in actuality one fails ahead of the other - rec/reg and battery usually fail together, stator sometimes fails with the rec/reg, sometimes stator fails and causes the battery to fail while the rec/reg is OK. Alternator failed on my Ford F150 and caused the battery to fail, but not until a short time after the alternator was replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just seems like this things been a money pit from the start. I'm going to order a new stator and check the flywheel tonight on it. I'll also order a new sscb to see if this fixes it and I'll update after
 

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Would you happen to know the part number for the stator and all I know my year model is a in between model since it was made in the second month cause I ordered a voltage regulator for it and said it would go on a 07 just to see it was made into sscb cause of the actual production date. I had order ed d that before I posted any of this btw was the cheaper alternative at tdd he time to try
 

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Okay here is a update unplugged stator connector I'm only getting 18 ac so it's bad. Also I tapped on the computer with a piece of wood and now it will start in park so sure that's bad also
 

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Stator part number is 3089959 - $705 from Polaris - might check for an aftermarket unit from Rick's or Caltric - you could also check into having the OEM rewound at an auto electric shop - I use Custom Rewind in Birmingham AL, they do excellent work at a fraction of the cost of new and I've never got a bad one from them, but the owner Gary died a few years ago - the employees took it over and I have not had a need to do business with them for several years. The phone number is (was) 205-798-7282
 
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