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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I traded a older chainsaw for this thing and tore into it last night.

Cleaned the mice nests out and the dead bird from inside the clutch cover/case. Got 130psi hot and 140psi cold. seems to run pretty good and idle nice. I'm a 2 stroke mech but never had a 4wheeler before. What do these things run for compression in tip-top condition? I'm so close to tearing off the cylinder and putting new rings in since I have it tore 1/2 way down.

Current issues:
1.) broken motor mount causes belt to throw off and killed the rear clutch cover.
-new belt and cover in route. does anyone make a complete set of rubber motor mounts?
2.) 1/2 the o-rings on the chains are breaking and falling out (replace chains?)
3.) How do I know if the 2-stroke oil pump works? any good way to test it? Kinda critical to check that before I run it too much. (been running synthetic 40:1 in the tank for now just to be sure.
 

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130-140 is good for comp. usually don't rebuild them till they get down to100. Dealer has motor mounts, Can get new chains and sprockets from rocky mtn atv .com. look in pre-mix tank, maybe take front cover off and mark oil level, run it with pre-mix awhile , see if level goes down in tank, oil pump is down on front of engine, throttle cable Y;s and runs to it, pulls a lever in the pump , these usually work pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seems like I've heard more than a couple stories about pumps going out and basically strait gassing the motors on sleds and wheelers. I've heard some guys just take the pump and cable out and just fill the tank with pre-mix so there's no question about the engine getting lubed.

Only the rear mount was broken so I ordered it too. I have a K&N AF and pre-filter coming too. I have a small hole in the outter clutch cover but think I'll fix that with some 2 part epoxy since it's only the size of a quarter.

Also looks like front CV boots/front universal joints but that'll be later down the road work after I have it running like a top.
 

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The pump is mechanically driven by the counter balance shaft. I have not heard of these pumps going out or failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cool. I know the others that I have heard about weren't the same brand or model so good to hear that. I see to many torched cylinders from strait gas since I work on saws in my free time... Don't want that to be a concern on this wheeler.

So leaving the P&C alone (good comp), and leaving the pump system alone... Just need to make a puller to get the clutch off and install the new parts it sounds like!
 

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Also check your counter balance oil. The dip stick is more or less under the carb and a tad to the right, it look likes a giant standard screw. It takes 3.5oz of oil. Often with these two strokes the seals wear out and oil/antifreeze gets mixed. The drain for the oil it on the front bottom of the motor just behind the chain drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
yea that's the next move while I wait on parts; change all the fluids. This thing has been sitting for at least 5 years. Do you mean the 4-5inch stud with the knob on it and really short dip stick? I checked it last night and it was full. I know this will sound stupid but is there differential oil I have to change like on my F250?

What do you use for fluids? Please give me a list of what I should change and what fluids to use!

Antifreeze (regular car 50/50 assuming?)


Looking at batteries, winches, and winch mount currently if anyone wants to add comments...

Lastly, looking at the below chain pack to replace all the chains. I won't mind spending a little more to get better quality but 90% of this things work will be removing tires from the creek, and taking me from house to shop and vice versa. Might plow the drive in a pinch if the truck is ever down and haul wood from the woods to the shop. Anyway not going to be ridden hard and put away dirty like a teenage rider, just good work ATV.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250489264633?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

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Yes you found it. That's great that it was full!!! If that was leaking it's a huge job to correct. I am in the middle of new seals and bearing now to correct that issue. You definitely want to do the transmission fluid and the front diff fluid which is changed on each hub front right and left . Antifreeze is the same as a car. Go on youtube and search on how to do all this. Below is the lube chart. Have Fun

http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/atv-general-discussion/6746-lube-chart-all-polaris-atvs.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did a little reading over lunch. Seems like there are a lot of guys that are using a high quality 5w50 full synthetic in transmission and hubs to simplify maintenance and acquisition of fluids. I might try that over the AGL first and see how that works out. Picking up Amsoil or Royal Purple local would be a lot easier for me to do.

Thanks for all the help!

(i'll probably be back soon enough with more questions)
 
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