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Have a 95 xplorer 400 4x4. Started in may. Went to pull it out of trailer and it wouldn't shift out of gear. Pulled shifter and got it unstuck. Put back in and it wont start. New plug fresh gas. Being a manual shifter I'm not sure the wiring on the shifter is the problem but maybe?? I thought I hooked up wires correctly but maybe not but being manual shifter shouldn't matter just lights on dash because I've started it in gear before
Any suggestions. Wanted to get my plow on it.
 

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Didnt try to start it while stuck in gear.
I tried to start it in gear. It didnt start. Now I've changed plug. Blew out carb. With the plug on the wire against the frame the spark seems strong. I do have fuel going to carb because plug is damp. I'm lost. It started in may and ran fine then sat for 6 months. I've always been taught spark and fuel means running but this one wont start. Any help appreciated. It's not really worth much to spend at dealer to fix.. never had a problem starting it. Owned it for 4 or 5 years.
 

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I tried to start it in gear. It didnt start. Now I've changed plug. Blew out carb. With the plug on the wire against the frame the spark seems strong. I do have fuel going to carb because plug is damp. I'm lost. It started in may and ran fine then sat for 6 months. I've always been taught spark and fuel means running but this one wont start. Any help appreciated. It's not really worth much to spend at dealer to fix.. never had a problem starting it. Owned it for 4 or 5 years.
Thought about using a little starting fluid but dont know how detrimental that would be??
 

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You can try starting fluid to see if it will pop and fire. Proof of concept kind of thing. If it is flooding right away though I would suspect carb cleaning is needed. And a compression check. Could have a stuck ring


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What would be acceptable compression and what is considered good? Will check tomorrow morning.. thank you for replying. I'm lost
 

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Pretty much with any 2 stroke you need a minimum of 100psi on the gauge to make it run right. Might be able to make it to with 90 but it won’t run well. Check it dry and wet. At least 3 complete rotations of the crankshaft with the throttle held wide open


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Yes - 100 to 120 minimum - 120 to 150 normal - I would suspect carb first, fuel second (if it was alcohol blended fuel it can only be stored about 21 days in a sealed container before it needs to be disposed of - non ethanol fuel can be good for over 100 days in an unsealed container such as a plastic gas can or fuel tank) and third, spark plug - plugs can go bad in storage due to condensation.

Try starting fluid (it will not hurt the engine) - just spray it into the air intake while cranking the engine - if you can't access the intake, take the top off the air filter and spray it on the filter while cranking the engine - if it starts momentarily, then the carb will need to be serviced if it is full of fuel but the engine will not run without being choked or continually spraying starting fluid into the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you so much. I will put a compression tester on it today and see what it is. If it's good then I will use a little starting fluid. And see what happens. Are carbs hard to clean up?? My dad was an auto and heavy equipment mechanic my entire life so I learned to work on cars at a young age. I never tore a quad carb apart though. I've rebuilt a few Rochester carbs years ago before everything is EFI.
 

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Carbs are not hard to clean, just need a good carb cleaner (soak not spray) just pay attention to detail, remove all removable parts (except idle speed screw) - on the air/fuel screw, turn it in until it just bottoms out and count the turns before removing it (typically 1 1/2 turns, but may be 1 3/4, 1 1/3, 2 or whatever - you will want to reset it at it's original setting) - with the soaking solution at about 70 degrees, about an hour will be adequate - heavier deposits and cooler solution temp may require longer soak time - about two hours is max before material discoloration appears (discoloration will not hurt anything other than appearance) - if any parts appear damaged, get a carb kit or just get a carb kit prior to disassembly and install the new parts in place of the old parts, buy verify the new parts match the parts removed - assemble parts in reverse order of removal, check the float level and install.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok well compression is 110. So it must be carb issues as I have new plug , new gas, unless I have a partial plug in fuel tank/lines. All the carb I see online say only for 4stroke so will keep looking for rebuild kit. Hopefully that fixes it. Was going to pull tank and clean it out but not sure how to pull plastic to get tank off. When I have more time I will attempt that..
 

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Most two stroke carbs only need parts if they get damaged - even the float bowl gasket is reusable 90% of the time, but if you need a rebuild kit Shindy has one for $25.

Get one on Ebay or from any local motorcycle/repair shop that distributes Western Power Sports products - kit number 03-404 (WPS # 03-0404).
 
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