xplorer 400 new engine, trouble with mounts

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What you have is a 94-95 cylinder with the reed valve mount cut on the same plane as the engine mount



What you need is a 96-2000 cylinder with the reed valve mount cut parallel to the bore of the cylinder


The carb holders are different too

ah drats!!!! so i found the early model carb holder in another box buried. the angle IS DIFFERNT btween the 2 and it worked!!! theres some room, seems ok. Is there any issue with running this older cylinder/crankcase combimination? thank you all i really really appreciate the info i will never EVER accept another job where i have to build one quad out of two and in boxes... what a nighmare.....today im trying to find the order/qty of washers parts behind the drive and driven clutch

Driven side theres a foam seal thing that sits in the inner clutch cover then two washers/shims.. some say 3 should be there, diagrams say 1.. is this for alingment? with a straight edge when the clutches are installed??








part number 1/2 is the question here

You mean one of these?

Clutch alignment tool
2870654 clutch offset alignment tool 74.00 74.00

ok i got it started and running, few things....
started right up!! very smoky from maby to much assebly oil, didnt have to nurse the throttle to idle. its extremly rich boggy throttle. very low idle almost knocking its so slow,tried all the way in and out on the idle screw no change really thats somthing(carb slide not bottoming? it sounds like it bottoms out. air screw no real change all the way in or out. i should check the clip position feels like way to much fuel maby lean a notch,see how the idle and throttle reacts, take it for a short shakedown run . its a brand new chinese carb from the owner, the stock makuni has a stripped throttle cable thread im waiting for a tap. id rather use a makuni
i havent been in the carb, maby its still clearing up.
some bubbles coming out at the reed flange i did put a new gasket on engine side, needs a tweak should have run lean if it was sucking air.

Top water line off the head is cold when the engine is hot to touch normal? maby 10 mins on it idleing tweaking the screws. i burped the air out of the head bleed screw a few times.
the cold side of the water line has a inline electric water pump a Faucet Posi- Flo brand mounted just behind the rad its warm ive never even seen this part ever in the cooling systems diagrams weird. is this electric water pump wired to the rad temp sensor? fan? i NEED A DIAGRAM like every other xplorer i read about the wires are hacked.im a little concerned the mechanical water pump isnt working. i would really like to know how fast i should feel hot side on the head warming up before i assume somthing in the pump isnt sealing or flowing.. i had the electric water pump wired in runnning to run during a heat cycle..

wow wow those manuals are very good they help alot as im going through them making sense of them performing tests and making things better! thank you latebird!!

I deleted the electric water pump. 1 it does not belong there(previous owner had no impeller and put a inline pump in to circulate) i rebuilt the water pump in the engine. 2 the pump was in backwards idiots... now i come to find out the rad is full of sludge, no my countershaft oil never leaked out i checked. the oil in the rad was from previous neglect. gotta remove the rad and clean
going to see what this brand new carb chinese needle clip position as its sounds dog rich (takes a while to come up to mid-high rpm blips and very low idle no change on idle or air screw what so ever, still waiting for tap for makuni throttle cable threads buggered.

changing those indicator bulbs with the thin wire to the brass tabs in the plastic housing are THE DUMBEST thing ever lol with the manual i got all the lights working excpt 1 bulb burned. i carefully got the three brass contacts out, tried to un pinch where the wires are, thread in the wires punch it, push it into the housing, found my glue gun tried to dab and snapped a wire off omg lolololol