Those machines when operated in AWD is actually 2WD until a slip is detected and then AWD kicks in till traction is regained and 2WD is resumed. My first thoughts would be the selector switch it could be faulty. The differential fluid level in the rear would be my 2nd suspect as far as checking the level, the level should be up to the fill hole. If you can contact the PO and find out when the last fluid change was done might me as simple as a all-round fluid change.

 

Thanks for the reply! Is there anyway I can test the awd switch? And I’ll check the diff fluid tonight, I just changed the engine oil and filter a week ago but didn’t do the axle. Would be awesome if it’s as simple as the diff being low!

 

Update: rear diff was full and fluid seems fine, still wondering if there’s a way I can test the 4x4 switch before I start throwing parts at it, I called my dealer and they also told me it could likely be the throttle position sensor. Also it’s bogging down in awd and 2wd now, and the engine light now comes on EVERY time I hit the throttle, doesn’t matter if it’s in awd or 2wd. It even does it with just the key on and the engine not running

 

Unhook your speedometer from the back of the gauge cluster and see if that makes a difference, also trying putting a zip tie or a piece of tape between the 2 contacts in the thumb throttle housing.

 

Ok will try this

 

Took the cover off the thumb throttle housing and there was already a small piece cut off of a zip tie stuck between the two piece of cable in the housing, it’s dark out now so I will de attach the speedometer tomorrow and see what happens

 

Could need a flash. Mine is a 14 also. Mine used to foul plugs constantly unless I was running it hard. Pull your plug and see if it’s dark. If it is put a new one in it and you’ll need to get it updated. I went through 4 plugs in three months before I took it in. They flashed it and installed a different plug. Still running same plug today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I replaced the plug the day I got it and have put a good 20 hours on it since then. I will pull the plug and see what it looks like.
Though I think he plug must be sparking pretty good since it idles mint and starts in a second every time, it just dies when I give it gas.

Also when it dies it seems like it wants to rev up but it’s like something (a sensor or something) is telling it that it can’t, not sure if you know what I mean by that

 

Checked the plug and it still looks brand new, haven’t got a chance to pull the speedo yet, will do it this weekend

 

Checked the valve clearance yet? They like to adjust all the way in, then it won't run worth a lick.

 

No I haven’t, the engine will start and idle perfect but it’ll bog die if I hit the throttle

 

Just bought this machine three weeks ago and have had it out twice in the mud for 10+ Hour days without any problems until now.

I went up north with my buddy to atv into his cottage and when I went to unload the machine it started right up but would bog when I hit the throttle and die if I held the throttle. And the engine light would come on every time I hit the throttle.

Have you checked the air filter since being in the mud?

 

Ya I have it’s not dirty at all, i think I’m gonna check the fuel filter and fuel pump this weekend, can anyone tell me where either of these are located?

 

Both are in the tank. The fuel pump can run and still put out fuel and be bad. Without a gauge to tell if it’s not holding pressure around xx psi you are wasting time IMO. I would empty tank and change fuel before I pulled pump.
But I don’t have a clue as to what your problem is, from what you said earlier. Could be wiring issue or fuel pump????

 

Polaris fuel pump is expensive. Is there a cross reference fuel pump that will replace the OEM pump?

 

https://www.highflowfuel.com/ag-130...480.1305919.1306651.1308283.1306650-atv-utv-2014-polaris-sportsman-570-efi.html

 

pretty sure your throttle cable needs adjusting, probably why PO had a ziptie already in there.
You said engine light was on so a code must be stored in system. Throttle free play code ends with '194' if i remember correctly.

 

I’ve tried looking for a code but I can’t find one when I cycle through the screen display, also the engine light never stays on, it only come on when the throttle is pushed, then it goes off again when the throttle is released.

The other question I have is I’ve looked up the throttle cable adjustment problem and everyone says when it’s adjusted wrong it won’t idle because of the contacts touching and making the bike think the throttles stuck. And the result is the bike not idling but being able to run with the throttle pushed. Mine is the opposite. The bike idles perfect but dies and has the engine light come on if I push the throttle.

Is this still a symptom that could be cause by a incorrectly adjusted throttle cable?

 

my buddy's atv would start and idle normally and acted up when pressing on gas only , dealer adjusted cable on warranty , his bike had about 700 km on it when it started acting up. He could barely get ut moving.
There are many threads on here of members bikes idling fine and only acting up when trying to accelerate. Some members had to replace the TPS sensor it was not cable slack adjustement.
If you know a dealership you trust sometimes its better to pay a little and save messing around for a month.

 

Ok I will try and adjust my throttle cable then, I’m guessing it should be adjusted until there’s no slack in the cable? I’ll try and find a video on YouTube and I’ll respond back with the outcome

 

My 17 850 SP idled perfect when the throttle cable was out of adjustment, it wasn't until I gave it throttle that it started to act up and the check engine light would come on.

 

Ok I will definitely look at the throttle then, that will be a much easier fix then replacing the tps

 

Adjusted the throttle until there was no slack other than in the spring for the stuck throttle safety thing, still no fix. The odd thing is yesterday it was warmer out like +7 Celsius and I went to look at the quad and it was completely fine, I took it up and down the road and pinned it and had no check engine light and no problem at all, in 4x4 and 2wd it was fine in both.


Now today it’s a bit colder right around -4c and I went to take it to a friends farm to make sure it’s still fine, I start it up and go to move it and right away it’s bogging and the engine lights coming on, and now when I move the switch to 4x4 the engine lights on at all times.

So the issues almost seems to be only happening when it’s cold out, i took a video today and I will post it on here when I figure out how.

I also found out how to get the codes from it, every time I had the switch in 4x4 and the engine light stayed on it threw a 520194 2 code which is “signal out of range” not sure what that means?? And when it’s in 2wd and the engine light comes on every time I hit the throttle it throws a 520194 7 “throttle stuck”, that code doesn’t make any sense to me because I’ve got a piece of a zip tie between the two connectors in the safety switch thing and I’ve now got the throttle cable adjusted perfectly(at least I think it is). So now I’m thinking could the tps be messed up and thinking that the throttle is stuck and be sending that code? Or is it only that safety switch thing that can do that?
Thanks again for all the help everyone

 

Here’s the video

https://youtu.be/o4QnJf2YPMI



Hard to hear in the video but the engine bogs if I hold the throttle while it’s in 2wd when I put it in 4wd it revs up a bit better but if I ride it then it’ll bog still around 4000rpms compared to bogging around 2500rpms in 2wd

 

Metal expands with heat and shrinks with cold, so the temperature outside affects the cable slack/sensor switch to a extent. This is a safety device for stuck throttle cable, yes its BS but u cannot just remove slack and its good.
Dealerships use a meter to adjust the resistance at a little magnet / contact in throttle cable housing.
You can try and utube adjusting gap with a multi meter but not sure it can be done easily that way.
Maybe its your tps sensor that is defective and your wasting your time with cable adjustment,
Time to open your wallet and go get it diagnosed at a Stealer Ship.

 

Ya I think I’ll take it in when my new tps arrives in the mail.
Damn efi!! First efi machine I’ve bought and I think it’ll be my last as I’ve always been able to fix any issues I’ve had with carbureted machines by myself

 

your right about that , but they are more powerful and efficient tho, when not acting up. !!
keep us posted on progress .

 

So I brought it to the stealership, they called me back 2 days later and said it was fixed, said they just needed to adjust the tps.

I took it out today and it was fine for twenty mins and then the same old crap happened again, engine light on every time I hit the throttle and bogging so bad I couldn’t even move it to crutch it back home, had to get my brother to come out and tow me back with his quad.

Dealerships closed today so I will be calling tomorrow to let em know I’m not very happy with their mechanics.

I’ve found some videos of how to set the tps and I think I’m going to give it a shot this afternoon.only thing I don’t know for setting them is the voltage specs that I should be trying to set it to. Does anyone on here have this information in a service manual or anything? Thnks