Hey guys, new here. I have a 2016 outlaw 110 that's 8 months old. It runs but will not idle and has no power. 1st the dealer said I had dirt in the fuel injector and gas tank, which I didn't believe because I have two Yamaha 700s that use the same fuel and gas can. They both are running perfect. Dealer told me it was fixed, I picked it up and it did run but that same day my son drove it for about 2hrs and it went back to the same issue. Took it back again and the dealer said the exhaust valve was bent, which also I thought was bs cause I could spray starting fluid in throttle body and quad would run.. and yes I told the dealer this, but they already took it apart before he told me what he thought was wrong. Which pissed me off but long story short they put it back together and also said the fuel was bad. Took 3 months to get it back and again 2hrs of riding, it won't idle and no power. Does anyone have a clue cause the dealer don't.. please help,,,
2016 Polaris outlaw 110 no power dies at idle
Jjjquadlife
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Did anyone find the fix to this? I have a 2016 sportsman 110 that will not idle after its warm. Ive checked the valves, changed the plug and replaced the battery. One thing I did notice is that it will start intermittently if I spray some starting fluid in the airbox. We recently removed the governor and that seemed to bring on the problems. TIA!
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What is the 'governor'? The throttle stop screw? Have you tried adjusting the throttle cable? Throttle cable adjustment procedure is detailed below.
![138568]( "138568")
![138569]( "138569")
The governor is a "jumper" under the seat and only allows the atv to go 15 mph and then 29 when removed. Yes I tried to adjust the cable, it didn't change anything..
Also, I will add, I did not purchase it new. ive had it for about 2 years and my son rides it pretty regular. I have used regular 87 gas in it, until about 3 weeks ago it ran fine. It almost acts like its starving for fuel but I am not sure how that's possible with EFI, I am no expert for sure....
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Fuel pump failure is the most common problem with EFI - I just put a new fuel pump on my Merc Grand Marquis with less than 50,000 miles - my Dodge Dakota RT with 105,000 miles and my F150 with more 200,000 miles are still running with the original fuel pump.
Fuel pressure should be 39-45 psi - check the pressure
A new pump from Polaris (part number 0455194) is $395 - the Quantum T35 fuel pump is a replacement option at $70
Fuel pressure should be 39-45 psi - check the pressure
A new pump from Polaris (part number 0455194) is $395 - the Quantum T35 fuel pump is a replacement option at $70
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That is correct
![138570]( "138570")
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Replaced the fuel pump. It ran well for about 30 minutes. Turned it off for a few, now it won’t start again...
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What was the fuel pressure with 1) the old pump 2) the new pump 3) now?
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So, I have the same issue; my Sportsman 110 will not start, idle, and runs like crap. I can make it start by pinning the throttle. The machine will sometimes idle after riding full throttle for a while, but will soon go back to the same case.
After a couple of tries of removing wires to sensors and vacuum hoses one at a time. I removed the hose from the “Idle Air Valve” and the wheeler starts, idles, and has full power. At idle if I play with the air going to the intake basically being the “air valve”...I can get the machine to idle very smoothly. I can also control very smooth to full throttle just using my finger to control the air flow.
I measured the resistance on the air valve and have 26 ohms, this seems reasonable. I measured the voltage to the air valve and it’s a pulse controlled voltage, and can see the valve is opening and closing.
So the good news is I was able to make the machine idle but the bad news is that I still don’t know what bad part I need to replace. I was curious if anyone has noticed this very thing “air-valve” and if they found out what part to replace to fix the issue?
I will order a new air-valve $60, but I have a feeling that it won’t fix the issue. If it does I will let this chat know.
After a couple of tries of removing wires to sensors and vacuum hoses one at a time. I removed the hose from the “Idle Air Valve” and the wheeler starts, idles, and has full power. At idle if I play with the air going to the intake basically being the “air valve”...I can get the machine to idle very smoothly. I can also control very smooth to full throttle just using my finger to control the air flow.
I measured the resistance on the air valve and have 26 ohms, this seems reasonable. I measured the voltage to the air valve and it’s a pulse controlled voltage, and can see the valve is opening and closing.
So the good news is I was able to make the machine idle but the bad news is that I still don’t know what bad part I need to replace. I was curious if anyone has noticed this very thing “air-valve” and if they found out what part to replace to fix the issue?
I will order a new air-valve $60, but I have a feeling that it won’t fix the issue. If it does I will let this chat know.
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So I replaced
so I pulled it back apart. The “gasket” and 3 prong clip that holds the pump in were not on correctly. Fixed that. Rode it about 4 times and it’s all over the place again. Took it the dealer, they found an emissions update that it needed and said the new fuel pump is bad. Today it will idle for about 5 minutes then quit. It will take several times to get it started after that. Then it will idle and eventually shut off again. HELP!
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So my sons 2019 outlaw 50 has been staling since the first week we owned it. Been in and out of the shop for almost three months. Polaris and the dealership now think it's a vapor lock issue. They ran tests by wrapping the fuel lines in tin foil and a heat shield. They said it's not stalling anymore. I'm still waiting on them to install a permanent heat shield and insulate the fuel lines. I believe it's more rare to happen on fuel injected ATVs but i guess it can still happen... Might be worth looking into.
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From Summit Racing:
Vapor lock is caused by heat. Excessive heat from the engine, exhaust system, and/or outside temperature can cause the fuel to vaporize in the lines. Some winter fuel blends and high altitude can lower the boiling point of the fuel. This can also contribute to vapor lock.
Alcohol has a lower boiling point than gasoline - alcohol fuels can cause 'vapor lock' at lower temperatures than pure gasoline.
Vapor lock is caused by heat. Excessive heat from the engine, exhaust system, and/or outside temperature can cause the fuel to vaporize in the lines. Some winter fuel blends and high altitude can lower the boiling point of the fuel. This can also contribute to vapor lock.
Alcohol has a lower boiling point than gasoline - alcohol fuels can cause 'vapor lock' at lower temperatures than pure gasoline.
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Vapor lock it what Polaris is saying is wrong with it. Waiting for them to figure how they plan on permanently fixing that.
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