Yeah that doesn't seem right. I have a stock 2010 550 X2 with a Glacier III. With no rider I get 8" of clearance between the blade and the ground. That's with stock tires at 7psi and the spring pre-loads set to the first notch on all four shocks. I have a 60" blade. I'm using a Polaris 3,500lb winch.

These are the possible things I can think of that could be different than mine:
1) Plow to winch link is too long - 7 3/4" total length
2) Winch is mounted lower - 18" from ground to cable opening
3) Winch sticks out farther - 7 1/2" from ATV frame to front of winch rollers
4) Plow subframe is lower - 11 1/2" from ground to bottom of front "ear"
5) Winch hook is longer - 4" for mine

Here's a link to some pictures of the measurements from my ATV. Maybe it'll help pinpoint the problem.

http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/members/jstoppok-albums-glacier-iii-2010-x2-blade.html

 

Welcome to the board!:goldcup:

 

thanks for your help jstoppok! the pictures were very helpful. i noticed on your winch picture that your hook goes pretty much all the way into your winch. i purchased my 550 with winch already intact which is a smaller winch than what you have. On my winch cable, i have a stopper that doesnt allow my winch to suck all the way back in. there is roughly 2 inches of cable outside the winch when sucked all the way in. i will look all this over tonight and figure it out! thanx again for your input!!!!!

 

You might want to try manually lifting the blade. If you CAN lift it higher, the issue is with the winch or connnection. If you CAN'T physically lift the blade, the problem is somewhere in the mounting system. You should definitely be able to lift that blade higher. Just be careful not to keep lifting after the winch is fully retracted. When it's cold out and you are in a hurry this is easy to do. The only time I broke my cable was this way. When you get this ironed out, you will be amazed at how well that quad plows.

 

Hi Guys! New to the forum and to the ATV world. I have a Sportsman 500 with th Glacier III as well. My problem is that when I raise the plow up, the cable loop gets jamed in the winch roller. I tried buying those stoppers but the loop is so big that it still pulls through the center of the rubber bumpers. Maybe I should cut the loop off, make a smaller one and thread some fender washers before the bumper? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Can you post a picture of this? Can't image a loop at the hook that would be too big to go all the way through a winch saver?

 

Yep, this is another one that requires a picture... there should be plenty of clearance.

 

i had an issuie when i installed my glacier III plow the dealer sold me 2 parts that did not seem to work for lifting the blade . one was a flat bar that was to be installed in place of the link that came on the frame and the other was a plate to go in place of the winch roller. for starters the flat bar was to long and the plate that was in place of the roller started to wear the winch cable and crimp for the loop. went with rod style link and roller works great.

 

My Glacier III with the 52 " blade is on my 400 HO. Just got both. Plowed 3 drives recently. I replaced the hook thing that came with plow that the winch cable hooks to, to a chain link connector. This allows the plow to be raised higher and the end of cable is farther out. But, I have to becareful and not to bottom out on the plow frame. I wanted more height so I can load atv with the plow on and clear the front of the tralier. I have 13.5" tall boards on front and sides of trailer. I still have to run the front tires up on 4 inch blocks too. 5x8 trailer.

 

Where did you get the hook that attaches to winch ? Do you have a part number ?
Thanks

 

I replaced the winch attachment point on the plow with a welded ring I got from a local tractor store. this way the plow bottoms on the atv before the winch hook gets to the flairlead. Just stop winching when you here the clunk of the plow frame being lifted all of the way up..
I did the same thing on my G2 plow. I removed the flat steel extention and replaced it with a clevis. no more broken winch lines since I did this mod.

 

I am amazed at how well it plows! My only problem is that my cable keeps snapping. The first time it happened to me, I replaced the plow to winch link with 2 D-Rings, and made a new loop in the cable with 2 wire clips. This worked great and gave me more clearance but I think it raised the plow too high because my cable has snapped 3 more times about 3 inches before my loop and wire clips. It is a clean snap and looks as though someone cut it with wire cutters. I am thinking that the cable on my winch is weak and am looking for possible solutions.

 

Is the upgrade from the standard 60" snowblade to the 60” Razor Two-Way Plow Blade worth it?

 

This was my first winter using the Glacier 3 Plow system. The plow I have is, 60 inches wide and both edges are raised to form a "V" in the center of the plow. Was told before I purchased this that I want a State angled plow but this was reccomended from the dealer. Like i said previously, it worked great except the fact that my winch cable snapped 3 times. Actually was just getting used to plowing and having fun and now winter is over!

 

As mentioned..... remove the "dog bone" lift link and use a shorter link. This should gain you a couple 2-3" of clearance between the ground and the blade. Just be careful when lifting, as the push tubes will bottom out (lift up to) the frame.

 

LongMichigan

Brand new to the forum, in fact never been on one before and really do not even know how to get started. I will give it a shot---I just put a Polaris Glacier II on the front of my Ranger and am continually tearing up the Locking Arm Bracket, Part # 2204642. Appears to happen most often when blade is angled. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

I believe that the winch, regardless of which it is, does not have a limit or deactivate mechanism built in. This allows the winch to stay in operation until something gives. You need to get a feel for the operation and release the switch before it's too late. Find a spot on the plow blade that will give you the max lift and leave it there.

 

Myself, I take my time and get in no hurry when plowing the driveway or out along the curb of the road. If you start banging into the curbs or hitting uneven pavement something is gonna give. The short area of the cable gets drawn in and out alot and puts stress on it. Alot of people replace the cable every year just to avoid it snapping. Some just put maybe a 10 foot piece on it for plowing and then the longer one when not plowing.

 

ostpic:

I'd like to see some pictures. of the snapped lines, of the plow set up including winch connection, plow height when raised, angles of cables, fairleads, plow frame, Etc., the more pictures the better.

also for the ranger guy with the Glacier 2. Pictures, pictures, pictures.

cables don't snap clean without a sharp edge to cut them. each strand will snap in succession and fray as they do so. so what is the cable coming in contact with that would cause it to snap clean?

 

Mine never snapped a cable but it got frayed and rusty after over 2 years so I got another one on Amazon and replaced it.