[thippe]

Place some equal-sized blocks between the rear tires (front and rear sidewalls) until the string clears the front tires (both sides the same).
Like use some 2X4s to stand up beside the rear tire sidewalls

Thanks for the quick suggestions you guys rock! I will try some wood blocks against the back tire sidewalls tomorrow first (baby is sleeping and will hear my circular saw if I cut right now). Hydrex I tried a method similar that was listed in the polaris shop manual but i like the way you explain it better.
As a last resort if those don't work i will take the front spacer off, but the tire rubs against the tie rod without the spacer so that would make it a little harder for me to adjust and tighten i think.

 

[Hydrex]

Here's a picture of my Arctic Cat with the yardstick spacer between front tires. With my lard butt on her, it's slightly tight, but just slides between on the back side. Lots of ways to do the job, though. Yea, that's a Dodge emblem in the grille, haha.

 

[NOR_Chris]

Thanks for the tutorial, much appreciated!

Now can someone please explain to me why the front wheels shouldn't point straight forward? I do also wonder if someone has ever tried to put car tires on their ATV, is it recommended to do this? Why, why not?

Cheers

 

[Hydrex]

Try it each way, some bikes like it one way, others are opposite. I still need to tweak my Sportsman, still a mite darty, but 10X better. My Sportsman has 1/4" toe in, it's too much, gonna try at 0.

 

[phil]

Thanks for the tutorial, much appreciated!

Now can someone please explain to me why the front wheels shouldn't point straight forward?

Cheers

Do you mean - like 0 toe?

 

[NOR_Chris]

Thanks for the tutorial, much appreciated!

Now can someone please explain to me why the front wheels shouldn't point straight forward?

Cheers

Do you mean - like 0 toe?

Yes that's what I mean, thanks.

 

[tenspeed]

Now can someone please explain to me why the front wheels shouldn't point straight forward? I do also wonder if someone has ever tried to put car tires on their ATV, is it recommended to do this? Why, why not?

I don't know why ATV tires point out. I do know when we set up rally cars, a quarter inch toe in would make the steering wheel return to center and it would keep the car tracking straight.

Someone may have used car tires on a ATV. Anything is possible. If the ATV drivetrain is anything like other AWD vehicles, you might have to have the front and rear wheel diameters match.

 

[tenspeed]

Thanks for the DIY!

When I got my 850 a month ago, I had my wife ride it around to learn where the controls are and how they worked. When she came down our gravel driveway, I heard the front tires scuffing as they turned. Yesterday when I was out using it for some yard work, I noticed that the rear portion of the rubber blocks on the front tires was wearing away. I used the search and found this thread about aligning the front wheels.

Today before I started to check the alignment, I opened the thread to see what size wrenches and sockets I would need. I noticed that sizes weren't listed probably because different models use different sizes. I wrote down the sizes as I used them and will list them later. It won't be applicable to all models but it might give you a good place to start.

I used sort of a modified "yard stick" method of measuring between the insides of the front rims. I have a wooden Lufkin 6' folding ruler with a brass slide which is handy for inside measurements. My alignment was a little more than 1/4" out.

eBay listing of what my ruler looks like - Lufkin x46 Red End 72" Wooden Folding Ruler with Brass Extension | eBay

List of tools I used on my 2014 Sportsman 850:

17mm socket to remove the lug nuts

needle nose pliers to remove the heim joint cotter pin

14mm open end wrench to hold the heim joint

15mm socket to remove the heim joint nut

15mm socket to remove the brake caliper

piece of wire to support brake caliper

13mm open end wrench to hold the tie rod

17mm open end wrench to loosen the tie rod locking nut.

Torque wrench to put the wheels back on - have alloy wheels so the torque was 75 lb/ft.

Thanks again for the DIY!

 

[Kingkat4]

Another way is mark the center of the back and front sides of front tires . I used a white paint pen. Square handlebars. Adjust to speck on toe out.

PS Snowmobiles use toe out also.

KK4

 

[captsloan]

Thank You

Thank you Polaris Rich for sharing the great info. Worked great.
I appreciate it!!

 

[Joenucc]

I followed this tutorial to a T. Then I checked my toe alignment using the method described In the Polaris sportsman manual and I was out by 5/8in. I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong.

I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.

Here's some of the tools you will need...

1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.

2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.

3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.

4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.

5.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.

6.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done! The strings should be as close to the centerline of the rims as possible.

Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.

For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.

7.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.

8.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.

9.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.

10.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.

The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.

I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.

Here's some of the tools you will need...

1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.

2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.

3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.

4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.

5.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.

6.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done! The strings should be as close to the centerline of the rims as possible.

Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.

For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.

7.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.

8.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.

9.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.

10.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.

The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.

The simple solution would be to remove the one inch spacers from the front tires only. Reinstall the front tires without the spacers and continue to do the front end wheel alignment. Once you have the wheel alignment complete and everything tightened down remove the front wheels and reinstall the one inch spacers.

Polaris

 

[polman500]

Tires all inflated same pressure?
All a-arm bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, shock bushings and tie rod ends tight with no play in them?
I just use a straight edge (board or angle iron) laid along the center height of the wheels on blocks to measure to rather than the string thing. Front wheels just barely lifted enough to get the weight off the ground so they can turn when adjusting. With long travel suspension the wheels tend to roll down some if lifted all the way up completely.
You can't accurately adjust if suspension components are worn or loose.
Once adjusted if you roll the machine back and forth in neutral about 10 feet on a flat level concrete floor or other surface and let it come to rest by itself, you can eyeball down the side of the tires and tell if they are running straight.

 

[bp405]

Another way is mark the center of the back and front sides of front tires . I used a white paint pen. Square handlebars. Adjust to speck on toe out.

PS Snowmobiles use toe out also.

KK4

this is what I do, SIMPLE!!!!! And like Polman said all the front end and rear end components need to be tight. somethings to also consider spring sag, are the springs worn cause OEM are known for that. also bearings and grease, I could have a little play in my wheel bearings and after a couple pumps of grease they're all tightened up again.

 

[PoPo3]

Good useful writeup!

I have been using the 36-48" X 3/4" alum angle iron method for about 25 years on my jeeps and ATVs. Simply attach the angle to each of the front tires, centered and even. Now measure between the ends... adjust as needed>

Versions of the same, GOOD JOB!

CW

I've tried the string way and many others but this the is best method I know. Only difference I us 2- 1x2 with eye lets to hold the 1x2 against the tires with bungy cords.