[tt425]

I read some more about your problem. I see you just got it and it is set up for gravity feed. The carb gets it's fuel by a vacum created by the engine that goes to the fuel pump and the diaphram in the top of the carb. More than likely nothing is wrong with the fuel pump. It might be dry rotten now thou.

 

[modelaman]

Yes, I took a gamble and gave a hundred bucks for it. The guy I bought it from told me he hadnt really did anything to it but drive it to do chores. He took it in and had a new clutch and belt installed and claimed that after that it wouldnt start, he was in a pickle and had to sell. The gas was really stinky and I noticed the fuel pump had been bypassed but he claimed it ran fine. Also noticed when I pulled the side cover off to see what was wrong with the pull start the case had a hole toward the top and the thing had sat there with a fair amount of water in it although it was dry but rusty when I took the cover off. I did spray the carb all out and got her pretty clean. A budy and I checked the compression and it was well over 125. Yes the crank case is over full and I have tried more that once to fire it up by spraying carb cleaner in it threw the carb. Spark jumps good to ground but when grounded against the frame almost appears to weaken. Hope this helps. Thanks, keep the ideas comming. Dave

 

[sfrasher]

"The gas was really stinky" is a definite clue that it's bad gas. Mine smelled really bad. That will dirty up the carburetor and cause it to overflow into the crankcase. If you had gas dripping from the bottom of the carb, it's definitely a dirty carb.

Get new gas and NO ethanol...ever...from what I have learned. Minimum of 87 octane according to the owner's manual.

I firmly believe that having a senior moment and putting old gas with ethanol in it is what caused all of my problems.

 

[sfrasher]

In the "official" Polaris Oil Change Kit, the "1 easy to follow instruction sheet" turns out to say "Please reference your Owner's Safety and Maintenance manual for maintenance procedures and fluid capacities...."

The whole kit is a filter in it's little box and 2 quarts of oil just like you would find at CarQuest, just packed in a fancy box. It is "official" Polaris parts and oil though.

 

[tt425]

If water got in the recoil housing it is possible that the stator and flywheel are rusted. You might can remove the flywheel and clean the stator with sandpaper and electrical cleaner. The stator will cause a weak spark if rusty. I am working on a 425 that I put a new stator on and trying to get it to fire. I also have a good spare stator but I don't want to sell it right now but I will sell it once I get my 425 running. A new stator is $150.00 from rickystator.com

 

[modelaman]

wich piece behind the cover is the stator and what does it look like? Thanks, Dave

 

[Russ C]

if crankcase is over full its probably full of gas, flooding it, needs new needle and seat in carb and oil and filter changed, your also sittin on a bomb if it backfires wrong and gets thatgas in crankase on fire

 

[tt425]

wich piece behind the cover is the stator and what does it look like? Thanks, Dave

When you remove the recoil housing you will see the flywheel it will have to be removed with a flywheel puller. After removing the flywheel you will see the stator. It will be round with wire windings. I recomend you got to a site such as babbittsonline.com and look at a breakdown of a few parts diagrams to get familiar with it.
Thanks

 

[modelaman]

Thanks guys, im still trying. Ill keep you posted and keep the ideas comming. Thanks in advance, Dave

 

[Diesel man 03]

Try cleaning the carb, check the jets, I bet that will get you going.

 

[modelaman]

o.k. things have slowed down and now I am ready to give this machine one last shot at getting it running. I bought it not running, no I didnt give much. It is a 1996 magnum 425 4x2. I have tried everything suggested above and still no luck. I want to know if there is any way to test the coil and stater? I just dont think the spark is strong enough. anyone Please?? Thanks ,Dave

 

[modelaman]

Well after today I am finally going to throw in the towel on my 425. It has totally kicked my a__! I have tried it all and still nothing. I have tried every suggestion offered and short of hauling it to a dealer or repair shop still cant even get the thing to remotely try to start. Thanks for all the help you guys have been great!! Thx, Dave

 

[modelaman]

Im back! Cant walk past that thing without thinking of something else to try. I did tear it down to the point that I Pulled the stater off and the valve cover on the cam sprocket cover. I just had to make sure that things looked the way they did in the picture, Thanks Wes. I think it is possible that maybe the the cam chain could be a tooth or two off from where they should be. The reason I pulled it this far down is because with the flywheel on and the machine at TDC, with all valves loose, the manual makes it sound like you should see the timing mark lined up through the inspection hole if all is well. Mine seems to be to the right of the hole / pointer. On my flywheel I found a single mark and on the the same section I could see 3 lines. Wich ones need to be visible through the timinig hole?? Thanks For everyones help.. If timing IS NOT the problem, How bout the box??

 

[modelaman]

stil no luck

Things I have tried, Set crank /cam timing, cleaned carb, checked all resitance on coil and stator, looked good. Cleaned all electrical connections, tried several new plugs. still cant make this damn thing run. I have thrown in the towel once but just cant give up. It does seem to pop out the back of the carb but will just not run. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks, Dave

 

[tt425]

You have me confused about your problem. Is it a firing or a fuel problem.
Do you have good spark?
Have you tried this: Disconnecting the ground wire from the CDI box?

 

[modelaman]

I wish I knew.

I wish I knew if it was a fuel problem or something else. I did have it running once. I put it all back togather and went to start it to show the wife, then it wouldnt start. I have a coil comming but my old one tested good. Wes sent me a manual so I have tore it down, checked timing, all the ohm checks from the stator etc.. everthing checks within tolorances. All she gives me is some backfireing out of the carb. just wont start. I am confused. Are there any checks a person can run on the cdi box to test if it is good? yes, I did unplug the black wire with no luck. Thanks for any and all help. Dave

 

[modelaman]

I guess the spark looks good but I have nothing to compare it to. I know you loose spark under compression and that is why I ordered a new coil... Dave

 

[Beenthere]

If it's backfiring out the carb, then it's a timing issue.
Did you check the cam shaft? They're notorious for going bad.

 

[modelaman]

I I know the camshaft, crankshaft is in time. With the thing at TDC everything is aligned and looks good. I guess I didnt think it could be the cam since I have good comprssion and it appears that the rockers have good motion with the valves set at .006. How do I tell if the cam is wore? I am sure you have to make measurements etc.. Could you shed some light on this? Thanks for all your help. Dave

 

[mstermechanic907]

i would rehook up the fuel pump than clean the carborator and check the timing,also the valve clearance.