Now you have to worry about binding your outer CV when at full lock.

 

I cut way before binding would be an issue. I measured it several times. and anyone with an atv knows not to throttle down when turned anyway. thanks for your concern though!

 

You mistake my observation for concern. I don't care either way. Just observing that there might have been more than one reason why the stop was designed the way it was. Might just be limited to that radius simply because of the added height of the tires and HD springs accompanied by the additional body roll created by the omission of he sway bar. And anyone that knows anything about 4x4 atv's knows that you don't need to be at throttle to bind the joint. It turns the entire time the tires do which means if you are rolling and turn too tight you exert rotational force on that joint. Good luck though.

 

Just went and looked at mine. Those brackets that stop the turning radius are definitely not by design! Metal on metal and just sloppy design work! Will be shaving some off as well! Bravo on the post OP!

 

awesome! I have been getting ready to do the same thing. I don't care if I can turn as sharp as a normal atv, but I would like to get about 50% or so back of what we lack from full turning ability.

what did you actually have to take apart to get to everything?

 

I first took the front tires off, and the spring off the passenger side then 4 bolts off the bracket itself, then took off the radiator fan cover shroud off then loosened up the handle bars, then the bracket holding the steering shaft. once that steering shaft bracket is off you can pick the shaft enough where it will move freely. I never took the shaft all the way out. Just enough to hit with the grinder and not get close to anything.

 

I measured the amount of steering turn I have on my 2016 HL to the steering on my dads 2014 sportsman 570 with a 2in lift. the steering radius on the bikes are very close, his might be a little tighter but its so much better. But I measured and studied the axles shafts also. My CV joint lower and upper are the at the exact same angle as my dads. So shouldn't wear out any quicker than a lifted sportsman. My dad drives his like a bat out of hell and has never had any joint issues. :rambo:

 

I give it max 2 weeks.

 

ok, ill keep ya updated

 

Well I think it was established in another thread that polaris engineers are idiots.

Clearly that bump stop was there for no reason!

 

850 timing gears........

 

I just reread your initial post and realized that you are not at full lock in your pictures. I misread the first time through and thought you were. That CV already looks to be in pain. I'm not even sure I would give it two weeks. Maybe two rides? Again, I don't care but don't start another thread later when Polaris won't honor your warranty on your axles or steering stem. Also hope you don't end up hurt trying to ride it like a sport bike. Best of luck to you.

 

I am at full lock in the picture. I posted the wrong picture, that is as far as it goes before it contacts the bumpstop bracket. I need to edit my post. (I will now) It is not any sort of bind at all and it only turns about an inch more than it did before. If it is in a bind than so is my dads sportsman 570. So if it does put extra stress on the cv, it will be no more than a lifted 4x4 atv. Ill take those odds. Now it turns a little less than an lifted Sportsman. I have ridden it several times since I did this two weeks ago. I promise I will test it to the extreme and be smart while riding just like any other atv.

And I'm not one of those people that would call Polaris and beg for a new shaft. I appreciate everyones feedbacks though. I have put a lot thought into this. I studied long before I cut anything on my new 2016 4wheeler. It still sucks turning though but its a lot better than stock.

 

Keep us posted!! I may give this a try as well.

 

Glad to see someone come up with a fix for this. I can't see it being any worse than 1000 regular sportsman with a lift and big tires. No makers of lift kits make you put steering stops in once you lift it. I am sure Polaris had there reasons, probably to help axles from breaking. Just like there engineers put a crappy cover on the diff, sure they had a reason but I am glad someone overruled them and came up with a fix. Keep us posted on how it does. Thanks for sharing.

 

just giving an update. I have been riding with zero issues. I rode some pretty tight trails this weekend with ease that were a pain in the ass before. I loveeee the new turning radius. It changed the bike completely.

I also put a 3in Highlifter lift on. Holy hell, its awesome. Ill post pics soon

and I put on snorkel extenders:hump:

 

I installed my 3" highlifter lift as well.. just waiting for my wheel spacers to come in tomorrow to finish and put back tires on. I assume you installed the spacers as well? I couldn't turn my back tires without smashing the snorkel. how is your increased turning radius with the lift kit? I was concerned about doing both because your increasing the angles another time when you increase the turning radius. this is my goal as well if yours seems to be holding up.

thanks for the info!

 

That sounds great! Looking forward to the pics

 

Awesome glad it is working. I wouldn't see why it wouldn't.

 

I got them from Racks Deep Performance in Winterville, NC. I paid like $130 for them. They are awesome and sturdy. They are bolted together at the top.

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me and my gf rode in the woods behind my house. a lot more fun riding than having to do 3point turns around every bend in the path haha
I checked over everything after I got in the garage. this was the first time I rode it hard with the lift. Everything was fine and dandy!


edit: I also painted my orange shroud black as you can see. I sprayed it with truckbed liner then let it dry then went back over it with a decent layer of regular black spray paint. looks better black to me

 

I know this is a old thread but how well does that back rest work for your passenger?

 

your bike looks very nice.. does the aftermarket snorkel riser have flexibility or will it break something if a tree limb hits it or you get thrown into it?

 

I will post a few pics from behind the snorkels. the kit I got came with 3"to2" rubber boots that attach the aftermarket tube to the factory tubes that run up. I cut the back of the radiator fan shroud and also I cut the back of the plastic cover so if I did hit a branch that the pipes could bend and flex at the rubber coupling and not have any pressure on the snorkels.

 

The Stickers were the first thing to go!

 

Great idea and great write up

 

OK Where's the ATV Police??? LOL!

 

I did the same on my 2016 850 HL and no probs

 

Did this mod end up working? No broken axles? Did anyone trim additional? Anyone have measurement of how much material was removed?

Over the 3 point turns!

 

Steering pros & cons?

OK you can Try trimming the Steering plate but be careful not to cut too much that you bind the CV joints, What I did was put the proper tires on my 2016 850HL for the type of riding I plan to do. If Chasing Mud Put the BIG 29.5 inch Lugs on & Deal with the Big turn radius, They dig in so much that they tend to push it straight! (Or put some Decent Trail rated Tires (I got 29" Tires.) and it turns as tight as a normal Sportsman will! That's a fact, since using the proper tires it gets me through the trails just fine like all the rest.
I'm just telling you my experience,,,, Ron Nadeau (Cheyenne Wyoming.)

 

On my ‘16 HL1000, when in 2 wheel drive, the bike turns kind of like normal, switch on the 4x4, and big turns, the giant turns we’re known for. So I’ve started trail running in 2 wheel drive, what a difference, still a giant, tall mud bike, but yeah. Took me 3 years to get confidence in the front diff cover not exploding in 2 wheel drive when spinning the rear tires....

 

I may have solved the issue to the poor turning radius on the Polaris sportsman 850 highlifter edition. Some may call me crazy but I got tired of taking a football field to turn around.

There is bracket on top of the diff where the tie rod ends contact and stop. It is a factory bumpstop that Polaris puts on because of the bigger tires and no sway bars. I took my steering apart and cut off the flange pieces that stop the steering from turning as a sportsman should.

My dad has a 2014 570 and I can turn just as sharp as his now.

I have used 4x4 and rode threw trails and ditches with zero issues or binding.
I love it!

here are the pics

you can see here my poor grinding skills

edit: I have posted the wrong picture. But this is a full locked picture. I will post a picture of my dads 570 for turning comparison. Don't get me wrong the turning still isn't what it should be but it is a lot better than it was stock

Can you please tell me where you purchased your back rest and bracket. I have been unable to find one like yours. Thanks in advance for your help!