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How to set wheel alignment. "Now with pictures!"

157K views 33 replies 27 participants last post by  PoPo3  
#1 ·
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.

Here's some of the tools you will need...
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1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
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2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
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3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
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4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
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5.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
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6.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done! The strings should be as close to the centerline of the rims as possible.
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Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.

For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.

7.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
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8.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
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9.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.

10.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.

The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
 
#2 ·
Nice job with this Rich!
 
#5 ·
Good useful writeup!

I have been using the 36-48" X 3/4" alum angle iron method for about 25 years on my jeeps and ATVs. Simply attach the angle to each of the front tires, centered and even. Now measure between the ends... adjust as needed>

Versions of the same, GOOD JOB!

CW
 
#34 ·
Good useful writeup!

I have been using the 36-48" X 3/4" alum angle iron method for about 25 years on my jeeps and ATVs. Simply attach the angle to each of the front tires, centered and even. Now measure between the ends... adjust as needed>

Versions of the same, GOOD JOB!

CW
I've tried the string way and many others but this the is best method I know. Only difference I us 2- 1x2 with eye lets to hold the 1x2 against the tires with bungy cords.
 
#6 ·
Awesome post!

Stew
 
#11 ·
Great writeup, just wanted to mention to make sure the heim joints [tie rod ends] are flat and level before and after tightening the nuts. If the ends are not flat they will wear out very quickly and can bind.
 
#17 ·
thanks for the write up, I tried this after installing new tires but i could not get the rear tire to go parallel with the string before it would hit the front tire and interfere (step 6:) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV.
i went from 25x8x12 stock tires in the front to 26x9x12 kenda bear claws with 1 inch spacers.
25x10x12 tires on the back upgraded to 26x11x12 Bear claws with 1 inch spacers in the rear too.
no matter how i adjust the tie rod, the front tire always touches the string before it can touch both sides of the rear tire.
the kenda bear claw sidewalls stick out a bit (on purpose to protect the rim i think). has anyone else come across this and have another suggestion for me? I'd hate to take it to a shop after i got the tie rod bolts loose and everything is ready to adjust - but the weekend is coming up and i'd like to ride too.
fyi - this is a 2009 sportsman 800 HO
 
#18 · (Edited)
Only suggestion would be to sit on the seat. Both of my bikes change a bit with my 250 lard butt on the seat. I cut a yardstick for each bike to just slide inside of the front tire. I try to get a tiny bit of toe in, my Arctic Cat is not very fussy, my Polaris is very fussy on perfect alignment. Thanks for posting. So thippe, try the yardstick method. Measure distance between front tire at axle height, front and back with a tape measure. Average the 2 measurements and cut a yardstick that length (add an eighth of an inch if you want. Adjust the tierods until the yardstick just catches on the front and barely falls out on the aft side of tire. Easy enough to make parallel or toe out. Try it at parallel and toe out 1/8" and 1/8" toe in. You might see one works better for you. When I bought my Polaris it was out 3/4" toe out in 25". Handled like crap.
 
#19 ·
Place some equal-sized blocks between the rear tires (front and rear sidewalls) until the string clears the front tires (both sides the same).
Like use some 2X4s to stand up beside the rear tire sidewalls
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the quick suggestions you guys rock! I will try some wood blocks against the back tire sidewalls tomorrow first (baby is sleeping and will hear my circular saw if I cut right now). Hydrex I tried a method similar that was listed in the polaris shop manual but i like the way you explain it better.
As a last resort if those don't work i will take the front spacer off, but the tire rubs against the tie rod without the spacer so that would make it a little harder for me to adjust and tighten i think.
 
#20 ·
The simple solution would be to remove the one inch spacers from the front tires only. Reinstall the front tires without the spacers and continue to do the front end wheel alignment. Once you have the wheel alignment complete and everything tightened down remove the front wheels and reinstall the one inch spacers.
 
#22 ·
Here's a picture of my Arctic Cat with the yardstick spacer between front tires. With my lard butt on her, it's slightly tight, but just slides between on the back side. Lots of ways to do the job, though. Yea, that's a Dodge emblem in the grille, haha.
 

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#25 ·
Thanks for the tutorial, much appreciated!

Now can someone please explain to me why the front wheels shouldn't point straight forward?

Cheers
Do you mean - like 0 toe?
 
#24 ·
Try it each way, some bikes like it one way, others are opposite. I still need to tweak my Sportsman, still a mite darty, but 10X better. My Sportsman has 1/4" toe in, it's too much, gonna try at 0.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the DIY!

When I got my 850 a month ago, I had my wife ride it around to learn where the controls are and how they worked. When she came down our gravel driveway, I heard the front tires scuffing as they turned. Yesterday when I was out using it for some yard work, I noticed that the rear portion of the rubber blocks on the front tires was wearing away. I used the search and found this thread about aligning the front wheels.

Today before I started to check the alignment, I opened the thread to see what size wrenches and sockets I would need. I noticed that sizes weren't listed probably because different models use different sizes. I wrote down the sizes as I used them and will list them later. It won't be applicable to all models but it might give you a good place to start.

I used sort of a modified "yard stick" method of measuring between the insides of the front rims. I have a wooden Lufkin 6' folding ruler with a brass slide which is handy for inside measurements. My alignment was a little more than 1/4" out.

eBay listing of what my ruler looks like - Lufkin x46 Red End 72" Wooden Folding Ruler with Brass Extension | eBay

List of tools I used on my 2014 Sportsman 850:

17mm socket to remove the lug nuts

needle nose pliers to remove the heim joint cotter pin

14mm open end wrench to hold the heim joint

15mm socket to remove the heim joint nut

15mm socket to remove the brake caliper

piece of wire to support brake caliper

13mm open end wrench to hold the tie rod

17mm open end wrench to loosen the tie rod locking nut.

Torque wrench to put the wheels back on - have alloy wheels so the torque was 75 lb/ft.

Thanks again for the DIY!
 
#33 ·
this is what I do, SIMPLE!!!!! And like Polman said all the front end and rear end components need to be tight. somethings to also consider spring sag, are the springs worn cause OEM are known for that. also bearings and grease, I could have a little play in my wheel bearings and after a couple pumps of grease they're all tightened up again.